Roman ruins, stunning churches, star-crossed lovers, beautifully landscaped gardens, and fantastic food and wine, Verona has the Eternal City’s charm and none of the chaos.
Travelers to Italy often set their sights on bigger cities–Rome, Florence, Venice, and Milan–often overlooking smaller gems like Northern Italy’s Verona. And boy, are they missing out!
What to See in Verona
Verona Arena
The Arena’s perfectly preserved round façade sits royally like a crown on Piazza Bra. If these ancient stones–which happen to predate the Colosseum in Rome–could talk, they’d recount tales of brave gladiators, hungry spectators, exotic animals, and often bloody games. To this day, the open-air amphitheater continues to entertain (albeit with less gore) with yearly cultural events such as concerts, ballets, and operas.
Don’t miss seeing the Arena at night. Illuminated with soft light, it is indeed the city’s crown jewel.
Museo di Castelvecchio
A stunning former castle built by the della Scala family in the Middle Ages, it was transformed into a fortress that protected Verona from attacks. The imposing palace, marked by seven brick towers and a connecting bridge, boasts beautiful views of the river Adige. Its halls host an array of artifacts from the Roman era up to the 19th century: statues, coins, jewelry, ceramics, arms and armor, and beautiful paintings by Pisanello, Jacopo and Giovanni Bellini, Pieter Paul Rubens, and Jacopo Tintoretto, among others.
Giardino Giusti
You’ll find this sculpted garden behind the equally stunning Palazzo Giusti. Perfectly landscaped, it features tiered terraces, artificial caves, dramatic sculptures, lemon trees, greenhouses, soaring cypresses, and perfectly manicured labyrinths. This is Verona’s verdant paradise!
Torre dei Lamberti
Climb the spiral stairs of Torre dei Lamberti for sweeping views of the city. At the top sit two magnificent bells: the Marangona and Rengo.
If you can’t get enough of this kind of view, visit the soaring Castel San Pietro, located directly above Verona’s Roman Theatre. You can reach it via the funicular or a 10-minute picturesque uphill walk.
Casa Di Giulietta
Verona’s history is inextricably linked with William Shakespeare’s famous play, Romeo and Juliet. Depending on how you look at it, the perennially popular Casa di Giulietta, the balcony, and love note covered entrance, is either hopelessly romantic or super kitschy. Either way, it’s a massive draw for lovers, historians, and film buffs.
A well-rubbed bronze statue of Guilietta’s stands in the courtyard, and touching her is said to bring good luck, especially in matters of love. Make your way past the spectacle and visit the former Cappello home, where you can admire the hodgepodge of artifacts relating to the real family and the romantic legend.
If you are a die-hard romantic, make sure to visit Juliet’s tomb, and Romeo’s house, which, at the moment, is accessible only from the outside.
Piazza delle Erbe
To reach Piazza delle Erbe–the square of herbs–take via Mazzini, the pedestrian-only, cobblestoned thoroughfare lined with fancy shops.
From a strategic point of view, Piazza delle Erbe is one of the best starting points for exploring Verona. All the major attractions are minutes away: Torre dei Lamberti, Arche Scaligere, Casa dei Giudici, Palazzo del Comune, Piazza dei Signori, as well as Romeo’s and Juliet’s houses.
Apart from that, the piazza is surrounded by lovely cafés, beautiful architecture, and in the center of which you’ll often find a small souvenirs and trinkets market.
Duomo di Verona and Basilica di San Zeno Maggiore
As Verona’s main cathedral, Duomo di Verona, with a mix of Romanesque and Gothic elements, is lavish inside and out. Inside, artistic gems abound, in particular, Titian’s Assumption.
Basilica di San Zeno Maggiore dates back to the 4th century. Its most prized feature is the 11th century bronze door with 48 elaborately carved panels depicting scenes from the Bible.
Where to Eat and Drink
La Tradisiòn is an excellent choice for a quick tapas-style lunch (or pre-dinner drinks) of salami, cheese, tartine, and Verona’s best and cheapest Spritz (each just €2.50 a pop!).
Alternatively, head to the always bustling Osteria Caffe Monte Baldo. Whether you’re in the mood for drinks, snacks, lunch, or dinner, this local institution is always ready to welcome you.
Al Bersagliere is an excellent place to taste the local cuisine. Try the bigoli al torchio, the classic baccalà con polenta or risotto All’Amarone.
An authentic regional trattoria, All’Isolo, is located in the student neighborhood of Veronetta, away from the hordes of tourists. Sit down to a plate of ravioli al formaggio monte Veronese and follow it up with bollito con la pearà.
After your meal, head to Libre!, an alternative bookshop/co-op where you’ll find a unique collection of books and local bibliophiles.
For something a little fancy–Verona is definitely fancy–book a table at Osteria la Fontanina, a Michelin-starred restaurant that serves elevated versions of traditional Veronese cooking. Likewise, Locanda 4 Cuochi is an excellent choice if you are looking to try local specialties in a trendy setting.
A local favorite–it’s particularly popular amongst gin and whiskey enthusiasts–FRZ LB‘s knowledgeable bartenders whip up a curated and creative selection of craft cocktails, minus the pretense. But, please, don’t ask for wine or Spritz.
If it’s wine you crave, then Antica Bottega del Vino will satiate your every desire and taste, especially if you’re craving Valpolicella varieties.
Something Sweet
If flavors such as white chocolate with basil, cinnamon with orange, or grapefruit infused with Prosecco thrill you taste buds, Verona’s Gelateria Ponte Pietra is a must stop.
Gelateria Savoia, a Verona institution since 1939, is another solid choice if you don’t want anyone messing with your traditional gelato flavors.
Head to Verona’s best bakery De Rossi where you can taste local specialties such as baci di Giulietta e Romeo cookies, or mele al cartoccio–a whole apple that is filled with pastry cream, wrapped in puff pastry, baked, and finally dusted with confectioners sugar. La torta Russa or torta di Verona, an almond flour cake, is another local must-try.
Skip your hotel breakfast and head to Bar Barini (an excellent bar/bakery) for an espresso, cappuccino, and something sweet.
Art & Chocolate is an enticing and colorful chocolate boutique where you can indulge in treats from some of the best Italian chocolatiers. The hot chocolate–perfect for those cold days–comes in many flavors such as forest fruits or Baileys. It’s also a great place to pick up a few souvenirs.
Where to Stay in Verona
Il Sogno di Giulietta
Sweet dreams await at the elegant rooms of Il Sogno di Giulietta, a lovely 14th century home cum 16 room boutique hotel with direct views of Juliet’s balcony and courtyard. In the evenings, the Medieval courtyard is reserved for guests only, and you can enjoy the romantic setting on your terms.
Hotel Relais 900
A 10-minute walk outside the center, this pink-hued Art-Nouveau building is surrounded by a lovely green garden, making a stay at Hotel Relais 900 feel like an Italian villa getaway. In fact, nothing here feels like a hotel. The rooms are simple, warm, much like the spare bedrooms of dear friends. Book the superior junior suite to sleep in a former library which features a stunning free-standing ceramic fireplace. The walk back to the hotel is uphill, so it may not be the best option for those with limited mobility; on the other hand, there is free onsite parking.
Arte Nel Centro
Arte Nel Centro is a colorful B & B that has quirky rooms that pay homage to Charlie Chaplin, Stanley Kubrik, and Maria Callas. Arte Nel Centro is close to the main train station and Piazza Bra. It’s no one-trick pony, however; this B & B has a welcoming and available staff as well as an excellent breakfast spread.
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